I enjoy a good meal, so living in Johannesburg is a great place for my taste buds, especially because there’s frequently a new eatery popping up on every corner, every week. Unfortunately, these eateries rely more on aesthetics than flavour, and that’s always a sour experience. As such, sometimes it’s best to go visit a place that’s been around a while and survived the foodie rush and die, which often happens when a new restaurant opens, before people eventually lose interest. One of these places is The Greenhouse Sandton, which has built quite a reputation.
As a passionate foodie, I was thrilled when I received an invitation to experience an exclusive menu tasting at Greenhouse Sandton, in collaboration with The Shortmarket Club as part of the latter’s comeback tour. The evening promised a night of culinary delights, and while the food tried to live up to the hype, the overall experience left a bit to be desired.
The Shortmarket Club Visits The Greenhouse
As mentioned, many restaurants in Johannesburg prioritize aesthetics, and The Greenhouse Sandton is no different. With its adequate spacing and plethora of nature aesthetics, it almost feels like you’re stepping into a quiet oasis within the lifestyle hub of Sandton City.
While nature has a calming effect on the soul, I couldn’t contain my excitement as we sat at our table, and I perused the menu that included items from The Shortmarket Club.
Curated by world-renowned South African chef Siya Mlaba, the newly launched menu is a sensory passport through Mediterranean and French cuisines, with carefully layered Asian influences that create a fusion of flavours that’s both sophisticated and approachable.
Granted, I know we were in the richest square mile in Africa, but the price we pay for a good meal is always a bit of a shock. Nonetheless, considering the hefty price tag, I knew that I could expect a delectable and tantalising experience… right?
Starters: Crispy Shrimp Spring Rolls
My meal began with what would turn out to be my highlight of the evening, which was the Crispy Shrimp Spring Rolls.
With the shrimp being impeccably seasoned, with the perfect balance of spice and savoury goodness, and the spring roll wrapper being crisp without being overly dry or greasy, this meal set the bar high from the get-go.
Main Course: Pan-Seared Duck & Green Beans
Now, this is where things took a bit of a turn.
With the Pan-Seared Duck & Green Beans, while the duck was tender, it sorely lacked depth in flavour and tasted underseasoned. If that’s not enough, the serving was smaller than expected, and I would have forgiven this if the flavour had been on point.
Interestingly, the green beans were the star of the dish, and I’m not even a huge fan of them. They were fresh, well-cooked, and packed with flavour, and they essentially stole the show despite being a (small) side component.
Drink: Mocktail Magic with Berry Deluxe
Despite the rise in sober curiosity, many restaurants don’t have a dedicated mocktail menu, and that include this particular menu. Yet, the bartender was more than willing to accommodate.
Now, as someone who has noticed that bartenders often fail at making non-alcoholic versions of their cocktails, I was filled with scepticism. Yet, to my pleasant surprise, it was delicious! The drink was perfectly balanced—not too sweet and incredibly refreshing. I was happy to be proven wrong.
Side: Salmon Sushi
Thanks to the small serving of poorly flavoured duck, I was still feeling a bit peckish. So, I ordered the Salmon Sushi, which did a well-enough job.
The sushi was well-rolled, the rice was seasoned to perfection, and the salmon tasted fresh. A reliable choice for sushi lovers.
Dessert: Chocolate Brownie
I’m a simple girl when it comes to dessert – as long as it’s chocolate, I’m happy. Thus, it made perfect sense for me to order the Chocolate Brownie for dessert. It was rich and indulgent, hitting the sweet spot for anyone with a sweet tooth.
However, I was hoping for something a bit more gooey or fudgy, and so it was a bit less satisfying than I’d hoped. Nonetheless, it was a good way to round out the meal.
Service & Overall Experience
Similar to the culinary journey offered by the food, the service left much to be desired.
Yes, our waiter was friendly and attentive, which was appreciated, but the service was incredibly slow throughout the evening. The music was also really loud, and it seemed like the volume would rise the longer we waited, almost as if the beats were meant to drown out our frustrations.
For a pricy three-course meal of this calibre, the pacing felt off, which affected the overall dining experience. The slow service was a letdown, especially given the price tag for a special night out.
Would I Visit Again?
Uhm.
Despite the slow service, I would consider returning to Greenhouse JHB in the future, although I’m in no rush.
There’s plenty of potential in their menu, and I’d love to explore other dishes and perhaps give the service another shot. Hopefully, next time, the pace will be faster, allowing the full experience to shine.
This exciting collaboration is the brainchild of hospitality entrepreneurs Heinz Rynners, Luke Dakers and Ben Stanger. Over the past five years, they’ve each earned a reputation for pushing boundaries and creating high-end dining experiences that are anything but ordinary, bringing a forward-thinking approach and a keen eye for detail that elevates every guest touchpoint.
Also, the trio are set to open Ocaso, a new Mexican concept developed in partnership with Corona, set to launch soon in the former Shortmarket Club location.
Together, they’ve turned The Greenhouse into a destination where culinary artistry meets laid-back luxury, and the results are deliciously unforgettable.
In conclusion, the Greenhouse x Shortmarket Club collaboration does show a lot of promise. However, there’s room for improvement, especially when it comes to service speed and some food items. I mean, if you’re going to spend R1000 in a single night on food, is it too much to ask for quick service and a fantastic meal?
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